Photographing in Practice
- Using full automatics - This mode allows the camera to
gain full control over the process of taking photos. You do not have to
take care about any settings, you can rely on your camera. This mode
sets the time of exposure, aperture value and ISO itself. Also parameters like
white balance, sharpening, color balance etc. are set automatically
- Scene modes (auto modes) - These modes simplify
your work. You do not have to evaluate the concrete situation or
environment and risk getting poor photos. Scene modes are marked with
images according to their usage.
- Portrait - For taking photos of people from a small
distance, the camera is set to focus on the main objects and to blur the
background. This can be achieved by setting a small aperture value. The
time should not be longer than 1/60 but also a fine ISO value should be
used. The device also decides whether the flash will be used or not.
- Landscape - Unlike the portrait, a high aperture
value is used in this case to get higher depth of sharpness. When
photographing landscape you want to get sharp foreground and
background at once. Flash is disabled, additional sharpening is enabled,
contrast is increased and colors are more significant. Appropriate time
and ISO are set again.
- Macro (close objects, details) - Focusing is
realized on close objects - suitable aperture, time and ISO are set.
- Sport (movement) - You prepare the camera to expect
fast and dynamic movements. High time values are set to freeze the
movement. To be able to use short time, ISO is increased so you can
expect noise. Automatics set an appropriate aperture value (usually
smaller values). The device also activates the possibility to take
sequence of photos when holding the trigger button.
- Night portraits - Device expects lack of light.
Flash is enabled but also longer exposure time is set. It is a good idea
to use a tripod sometimes because it is more difficult to take such
photos from hands to avoid blurred images.
- No flash - Using this way you can disable flash.
The device will be able to take photos only without flash so it will
have to adjust the settings properly.
- Creative modes (semi-auto modes) - These are modes
which allow you to set time, aperture of ISO manually or to cooperate
with automatics. They can be used for creative photos when you want to
get a photo according to your intentions. Automatics will take care
about final compensations but the photographer is responsible for the
result.
- Automatic exposure setting - You might
think this is the same as full-auto mode. However, this is not
true. Time and aperture value are automatically set but you can
set ISO, white balance and more manually.
- Exposure time priority - Using this mode
you can set the exposure time manually. You can use it when
photographing dynamic photos with moving objects or people, like
a sport event. It is possible to freeze all movements using a
short time. The automatics will compute aperture value. However,
you might want to highlight the movement. You might want to
photograph a running water in river. This will require a tripod.
You can set a longer time to blur water inside river to create
an illusion of movement.
- Aperture priority - This mode allows you to
set the depth of sharpness. The more opened aperture, the
smaller depth of sharpness and vice versa. This mode is used
when photographing portraits or in case you want to separate an
object from background (to highlight it). Time is computed by
camera in this case.
- Manual exposure settings - Mode which
allows you to take full control over the camera. You can set all
parameters which will affect the final photo. Automatics display
details about the scene and can help you but cannot set anything
without the action of user. This mode is usually used together
with flash lamps because automatics cannot evaluate dark
environment inside a studio. Too short time might result in
light gradients in photo which will not look naturally.
- Focusing - We have to mention two terms in this
section - motion blur and image blur.
- Manual focus (MF) - Camera can be manually focused
on any object. This is usually used for reflex cameras (you can see the
result inside viewfinder) in case that automatics cannot work properly
(usually because the lack of light or because of small distance to main
object). Automatics can cause problems when photographing through a
glass window or at objects without edges with sufficient contrast.
Manual focus is also used when you want to photograph something fast -
you do not have time for focusing. In this case you should pre-focus and
then only press the trigger button.
- Auto focus (AF) - There are two types, active and
passive. Active focusing measures the distance using a signal which is
reflected by objects. Passive focusing uses a set of lens and evaluates
the scene similarly to human brain.
- Matrix, ratio or zones - Computing is done in every
sector of the scene. Each sector is evaluated separately and the average
value is finally used.
- Centre-weighted scenewide - Focusing is realized
using the whole scene but the center of scene has 3/4 authority.
- Spot - Camera focuses on a spot which can be set.
You should think about each photo because the center object will be
precisely sharp. In case you want to focus on an object which is not in
center, you have to lock the focus (press trigger button to half) and
then move the camera and press the button fully.
Note: When taking a portrait photo you should always focus on eyes.
Composition Techniques
- filling the border - very common mistake is that
you do not come closer or use optical zoom so there are many unwanted
objects around which distract from the main motive. You should use the
whole border of photo but keep some space around the main object - it
should not touch the border
- rule of periods - one of the most used rules when
photographing, you can divide scene horizontally and vertically to
periods - imagine two lines in both directions and try to place main
objects in places where these virtual lines intersect. A person cannot
perceive the whole photo at once but he examines it gradually so
centering the main object creates unrest, especially for scenes with
horizon.
- rule of diagonals - photo which uses this rule can
express rise or fall, you can get such n exposure by simply rotating the
camera - the main line will go from corner to corner. Such a photo will
cause a restless feeling but will express dynamics
- rule of odd number - in case that there is odd
number of objects in the scene, you can place one object to the center
and border it with the other objects
- foreground of photo - you should place those
objects to the foreground which should attract attention of a viewer,
especially when photographing landscape or architecture you can use the
foreground to place an object to increase the spatial impression, this
technique also adds an idea of size and scale for the viewer.
- background of photo - the background should not
affect the perception of the whole photo, it should not distract the
viewer. Usually the depth of sharpness is used to adjust background -
when using bigger depth of sharpness you should be aware of objects
growing from head (like lamps etc. )
- view from top to bottom (overview) - this view is
also called bird perspective and it allows you to highlight the
foreground, objects appear to be inferior, helpless - this view is not
usual so it can be interesting
- view from bottom to top (underview) - this view is
also called frog perspective, it again allows you to highlight the
foreground, objects are dominant, superior. We are not accustomed to
this view so it can be interesting
- portrait or landscape - this decision is important
when using classical flash because when photographing portraits, shadows
are not hidden behind the objects which is not ideal
Types of Photos
From Technical View
These photos are very similar and very different at once. In case you
take an analogue of digital camera you can catch moments around you
because the device will record the light using set of optics. The second
part is only the way how the light is recorded.
- Analogue photo - Creation of an analogue photo is a
long way. The principle is the ability to change the behavior of certain
materias because of the light. The film is made of these materials and
scenes are recorded using a set of lens. The film is placed in dark and
after opening the shutter, the light has access to it. When the film is
whole recorded, you have to develop it. This is a chemical process which
results in negatives which are used to create the final photos.
- Digital photo - Creation of a digital photo is much
easier. The sensitive film is replaced by a sensor. This sensor uses the
light which travels to it and converts it to a signal which is processed
by electronics inside the device. The signal is digitally recorded
(using ones and zeros) on a memory card. The advantage is that you do
not have to develop images inside a dark chamber not to damage them. You
only have to insert the memory card inside to computer and print them
using a color printer. There is no problem to store these photos on a
hard drive and take them to a fotolab, or you can send them via
Internet.
From the View of Colors Usage
Do you think that color photos would sometimes be better as black and
white photos and vice versa? What affects our perception? You can think
about the difference between color and black and white photos. You can
take black and white photos using filters inside your camera or you can
process a color photo inside computer to become black and white. Black
and white photos are usually created using a computer because you can
compare it with the color variant.
- Black and white photo - This photo is still
important because there is something different inside it. A black and
white photo is simpler because of the lack of color. Color has its place
when taking photos and our brain has to involve it when evaluating the
photo. Color has to be balanced according to the whole composition. When
looking at a black and white photo you can focus on the composition and
are not distracted by the factor of color balance. Also the contrast is
much higher in black and white photos. Objects will be better divided
than in a color photo.
- Color photo - This photo is much more difficult
than black and white photo. You have to take care of color balance
according to the whole composition. It is true, that black and white
photo can hold more errors so you should use it when you feel that the
color photo was not taken as you wanted. You might get a better result.
You can also try color toning.
Whether you decide to take color photos or black and white ones, you
should realize how the photo will look like. You have to decide whether
the color is more important than shapes for you.
From the View of Photographed Object or Scene
- Landscape photo - Probably much more difficult than
you might think. When you go somewhere to photograph landscape you see
it as a complex. You see the environment, sounds, smells... and all of
this creates an impression. You have to express much more than only
documenting the environment when you take a photo. It is even more
difficult because some information cannot be recorded. It is important
to determine a point which will have its place inside your photo. This
point will represent the main motive and you will return to this motive
when viewing the photo. You can also try to catch landscape to induce
the impression of something great. If you place a small object in
foreground, you will enlarge this impression. An important part is also
the light. The landscape can appear differently in the morning and in
the afternoon, and you can also notice differences between a sunny and a
cloudy day.
- Photo of architecture - We can say that this type
of photos is similar to landscape photos. Your attitude is very
important - you can take standard documentary photos or creative
artistic photos. When photographing architecture, you should think about
the angle of view. You can also photograph only several parts, not only
the whole objects.
- Photo of animal - These photos are very difficult,
especially in the wild. The time of day and also the place are very
important, but you have to be patient. You have to behave quietly and
unobtrusively.
- Photo of people - This group can be divided to
arranged photos and snapshots. Arranged photos require a lot of
preparations and also proper equipment (external flashes, flash lights,
different objectives, reflective plates etc.). You try to photograph a
person from many angles and try to stylize him/her to get a fair result.
When taking a snapshot you have to catch the right moment. These photos
have to express more than the image. You should catch the expression,
dynamics and also characters of people.
- Macro photo - This means photographing objects to
capture their smallest details. The final photo will contain common
objects but using an unusual view. Objects have to be photographed from
very small distance so they will appear to be much enlarged in photos.
- Photo of sport - This means taking report photos.
You should know that this is a dynamic business and the key is to catch
the right moment (you will need a good luck of course). You can find
information about the sport you want to photograph to better orientate
while taking photos. The selection of place is also important because
you should find a place which has good light conditions.
Formats for Storing Images
When choosing your camera you should not forget this important detail
- saving photos (data). Cameras use different formats for storing
photos.
- Jpeg (Joint Photographers Expert Group) - This is a
dominant format for saving photos and was designed for this purpose. It
uses a lossy compression which removes small details which cannot be
detected by human eye. The compression can differ. When the image is
compressed too much, you can see a loss of quality.
- Tiff (Tagged Image File Format) - This format can
hold more details and is used in printing industry for high quality of
printed materials. It can be compressed and uncompressed, but the
compression is not lossy.
- RAW - This format allows you to store data in "raw"
version. The difference is that cameras do not make any adjustments of
the photo (cameras have a small processing unit which adjust the color,
contrast, sharpness etc.). If you switch your camera to save images in
RAW format, an additional special file will be created for each image.
This file can be edited in computer programs and can be used to gain
much better results also in case of very bad light conditions. Every
manufacturer has its own RAW format which usually uses a different
extension.
Plug-ins and Technologies for Digital Photography
- Adobe Camera RAW - This is a free plug-in for Adobe
Photoshop and Adobe Lightroom, it cannot be used separately. This
plug-in allows you to work with RAW format using several tools and
functions.
- HDR (or HDRI - high dynamic range imaging) - This
is a technology which can display a higher dynamic range of captured
scene. This means that the contrast between the brightest and the
darkest place will be large. To create such a photo you need 3 photos of
the same place at least. Your camera should be set to underexpose the
first one, overexpose the second one and take a standard photo as the
third one. You can use the function "auto-bracket" in menu of several
cameras which can help you with taking a set of HDR photos. You can also
use one RAW image and prepare 3 different images. Then you have to merge
those using special graphic editors and special functions, or add a
plug-in which can do this for you. The result photo is clear and has
perfect contrast and details - for example a dark room with a window.
Such a photo could not be taken - you would get too dark room or too
bright window. Using HDR you can also create photos which express known
scenes in unusual ways.
Questions
- What are scenic and creative modes and how can you use them?
- Which composition techniques do you know?
- Explain types of photos from the view of photographed object or
scene.
- Which reasons can lead to a black and white?
- Which formats can be used for saving images?